A checklist to help protect and prepare your bike for storage

by Bill Anderson

After another summer of cycling and making wonderful memories, it’s time to prepare your bike for winter storage. Unless you plan to ride your bike through the winter. Regardless, wouldn’t it be nice to be ready to ride when the temperatures warm up next spring?

Instead of cleaning or tuning your bike when you should be riding next spring, avoid waiting two to three weeks or longer for your bike shop to prepare it.

Preparing your bike for storage

When you put your bike away for the winter, consider these steps to store it properly. Following the tips below, or taking it to your favorite bike shop, will help you avoid future problems and ensure it’s ready to ride next spring when the weather breaks.

These tips apply whether you’re putting your bike in your basement, garage, or storage unit. Many bike shops now offer winter storage if you don’t have a place at home and don’t want to rent a storage unit. Just don’t let your bike sit outside.

You would think this wouldn’t need mentioning, but visit any college campus in the upper Midwest in February, and you’ll see dozens of beautiful, high-end bikes suffering in the cold and snow.

In any case, follow these pointers so you are ready to go when the weather warms up next spring:

1. Wipe down the frame and inspect it

Use a dry rag and a spritzer bottle filled with water or a mild detergent solution to wipe it down while you inspect the bike. I’m not a fan of wet-washing a bike with a water hose, as it can cause problems if water gets into your components. Then wipe the bike dry to prevent rust on all metal parts.

The best way to do this is to use a brush to knock off any chunks of dried-on mud from your frame or wheels. Then use a damp rag to wipe your bike down and remove any remaining dust or dirt. Also, remove any grease or grime that has built up around your drivetrain or in other areas where dirt can collect.

2. Inspect your frame

Bonus tip: Wiping down your bike lets you inspect the frame thoroughly. While cleaning, look for cracks or metal fatigue, especially near the bottom bracket welds, which support much of your weight.

3. Cleaning your drivetrain

Now is a great time to clean and lubricate the cassette, chain, and crank to remove any crud that may have built up over the riding season. Plus, a fresh coat of lubricant will help protect against rust. If the chain has several thousand miles on it or shows significant wear, consider replacing it.

4. Lubricate the cables

To avoid spring issues like rust or poor cable performance, take a few minutes to lubricate the cables that control your brakes and derailers. Apply a few drops of light lubricant to a rag, then rub it on the exposed cable—lightly work it through the cable housing. This will help keep your shifting mechanism in good condition while reducing stress on your cables.

5. Inspect tires, wheels, and brake pads

While wiping down your tires, check your wheels for loose or broken spokes by spinning each wheel and checking whether it still spins true. Make sure your wheels spin straight, with no side-to-side wobble and no rubbing against the brake pads. If your wheels don’t spin straight, it’s probably time to take your bike in for wheel truing.

At the same time, if you don’t have disc brakes, inspect your brake pads for proper alignment and any excessive wear.

6. Then inflate the tires

Before putting your bike away, fully inflate your tires, especially if you store it on its wheels. If your tires are flat, the bike’s weight presses down through the rims on one spot on the rubber. Over several months, this can deteriorate your tire, as the rubber can distort and/or develop a weak spot in the sidewall. If you hang your bike from the ceiling by its wheels, the recommended tire pressure is still good.

7. Wipe down the tires, saddle, and handgrips

Now that you have cleaned and lubed your bike, wipe down all the remaining components to prevent any wear or misalignment. Take an optional step that primarily affects the bike’s appearance. Armor-All works well on your tires, rubber handgrips, and seat (for leather, vinyl cover, or another smooth synthetic surface). Products like this beautify and protect, giving a clean, shiny look while keeping the material soft. This takes only a few extra minutes and is something you’ll be glad you did in the spring, as your bike will look sharp and be ready to go.

8. Remove any batteries or charge them to the recommended capacities

Remove any accessories with lead batteries, such as front and rear lights, to prevent battery acid from leaking onto your bike during storage and causing corrosion. If the battery is hard to remove, like some Lithium-Ion batteries on electric-assist bikes, charge it to the recommended capacity, typically around 85%. See “How to maintain an E-bike” for more information.

9. Clean out your panniers and trunk bags

If you leave your bike bag on, clean and wipe it out. Make sure no food items are left inside, or you may find a family of rodents nesting there next spring.

 10. Empty water bottles and water packs

Take all your water bottles off your bike, or drain them and give them a light bleach rinse. Running them through the dishwasher is another option. When finished, leave the lids off so they can dry completely inside before storing.

If you have a backpack canteen water carrier, flush the bladder with a very mild vinegar-and-water solution, then rinse several times with plain hot water, and finally leave the lid off to dry.

Now, as you sit by the window watching the snow fly and recall all the memorable rides you had this year, you can rest assured that when the first opportunity to ride next spring comes, you are ready.

A bonus tip

Take your bike in for its annual tune-up now. Many bike shops offer special discounts this time of year. Plus, you will be ready to ride if we have an early spring.